“Challenging” TMB Stage 2

After our string of beautiful days, we awoke to rain/thunder overnight. We were hoping that the forecast was correct - the rain was supposed to stop by 9 am for the day. So we had our breakfast and then were ready to roll by 8 am. After some debate, we decided to start with rain jackets (not rain pants) and pack covers.

The first part of Stage 2 winds through the village of Les Contamines down to the river. We then followed the river for about 2 miles until we got to Nortre Dame de la Gorge. It is a beautiful little chapel that you can enter, say a prayer, or contemplate what’s ahead.

Immediately after leaving the church, we started a big climb up an old Roman road covered in rock. This Stage has two cols (mountain passes) - Col du Bonnhume and La Croix du Bonnhume.  After about 45 minutes of steep switchbacks, we arrived at a beautiful valley with a new view of mountain vistas.

Over the next several hours we alternated climbing more and walking through some scenic valleys. We stopped for lunch overlooking the switchbacks we had climbed up - our hope was that our lunch would provide a burst of energy to tackle the last climb to the first col.

We made the final push to the top of Col du Bonnhume with our own little celebration at the top.

OKAY - what gives TMB Stage 2 a “reputation” is that when you reach the first col, you still have another col to go over PLUS a huge descent! So after a short rest, we got our packs back on and started our climb to the next pass. This part of the stage involves going through a lot more scree (broken rack) and boulders. We had some beautiful views along the way made even more spectacular with some low hanging clouds.

We finally reached the second col, took some photos, and then began to mentally prepare for the long descent. Of course, I had warned everyone that this same descent last year had just about done me in with knee pain and fatigue!

Chanda helping us channel our “inner attitude”about our upcoming downhill challenge. 😀

I know it’s difficult to see how steep the downhill is, but suffice it to say that the 2 plus hours of switchbacks down to our refuge was as challenging as I had described. We were SO HAPPY to finally reach Auberge du la Nova where we would be spending the night. 

Nothing tastes better after a long, punishing hike than hot food and the refuge didn’t disappoint. We filled ourselves with “post hike comfort food!” I for one, am having fun eating a lot of foods I don’t normally eat. 😀

Statistics for today’s hike - Hiked 13 miles in 9.5 hours. 4000 vertical ft and 3000 ft descent (Och! 😀)

Postscript - Last year, after having some significant knee pain on the outside of my left knee for the first few days of the hike, I “self diagnosed” the pain as IT Band inflammation due to “overuse”particularly as we start our hikes. After reading this is a common problem for hikers, I decided to do a training program specific to preventing IT band inflammation and I’m happy to report this trip, my knee has been just fine! I’ve had no pain like I’ve had on the other two Alps hikes! Of course, I had the normal exhaustion after our Stage 2 hike just like we all did - but NO ACUTE PAIN! The most satisfying part of this whole trip for me this time is that all my focused training has paid off!